How to decide which type of suit to buy

.​The expectation of our customers is to provide them with dressing solutions for their specific needs, instead of just a suit or a shirt or a trouser. Many a times, this need is well articulated, say when they have an invite to a particular function specifying the dress code. More often than not, it is deeply embedded and comes out only when we start interacting & probing.
At TailorWear, we take special pride in putting ourselves in customers’ shoes and thinking for them, rather than just pushing another fabric or cut from our stable.
While the value of a one-on-one interaction can be understood and appreciated only when one experiences this interaction, for the benefit of our blog readers, we are capturing some of the broad categories in terms of the needs and respective pointers on dressing for them.

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​Profession specific need

Suits for Bank Executives

​Need suits (blazer+trousers) for daily work-wear
Conservative suits in terms of colors (blue, black, charcoal grey, even dark tan) and styles (fabric: plain, very subtle pinstripes or checks; construction: 2 button, regular notch lapel).
On the fabric material side, since the suit has to be a workhorse, wool blends are fine unless you are working at senior levels when you should always have 100% superfine wool suits with lined trousers.
Slimmer fits are fine but shouldn’t be figure hugging since you have to be in these suits for most of your time.

Even subtle style elements don’t work. Stick to the classic styles.
3 button suits are out of fashion and so are broad lapel suits.
Always get one jacket and two trousers made whenever you buy a suit.
Bring variations in the dressing outlook through shirts, ties & shoes
You should have 4-6 suits (build it over a period of time) in the wardrobe and keep replenishing them. If your organization permits (from culture point-of-view), one jacket-trousers combination can add a lot of depth & versatility to your dressing.

Suits for CEOs of large companies or senior government officials

​Should be the most conservative, exclusive and classy dressers
A classic suit is 2 button, regular lapel, comfort fitted & well made (take cue from here) in plain or subtle patterned weave.
Avoid wearing blended fabrics and stick to 100% superfine woolen fabrics
Stick to light plain colored shirts and sophisticated tie patterns
Wear French cuffs on your shirts
Its ok to take off your jacket once in the office, but do be seen in a suit whenever you can.
Should have 4-6 suits minimum

Suits (Jackets) enhance the stature tremendously and make people take you seriously. Look at the picture above and decide for yourself

Suits for Executives in Media & Advertising & Entrepreneurs

You are the luckiest of the lot as you can experiment the most when it comes to dressing and you shouldn’t miss the chance.

Try all kind of suiting fabrics: linen, wool, blends & cotton.

Try Spezzato ensemble. it offers a wide creative palette for you to mix and match.
You can do a lot of experimentation with the jacket styling right from having a strictly formal one to a carrying a sports jacket.

Have your jackets well designed and get elements which you don’t find in regular off-the-shelf jackets and blazers.

You can go for ankle showing trouser length to classic turn-ups.
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Should have two to three suits and three jacket options in your wardrobe.

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​Occasion specific need

​Business meetings/Networking Events

Key point: You represent your organization/your role in your organization

Stick to darker colors, preferably navy, black or grey suit in two buttons and notch lapel.

It is better to merge in the crowd than stand out like a sore thumb.
Avoid shiny polyester fabric material as well as three buttons or a single button construction. Peak lapels too don’t suit the occasion.

Comfortable fitting is more important than relatively snug fit (unless you are used to wearing tight-fitted suits and your profession allows that) since such events can be in a crowded place and can get extended to dinner and cocktail. You wouldn’t want to be seen sweating, adjusting your tie time and again or struggling to extend your hands for a shake.
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On the other hand it looks pretty clumsy seeing men dragging their feet in an over-sized suit which looks more like a cloak, pulling their trousers up from the waist while they talk to others or when they get up from their chairs or while having their dinner.

Black Tie Event

​Very clearly it is a classic tuxedo event. A classic tuxedo is only black in color. You can get variations in the lapel types but the whole combination has to be all black with a white shirt. Tie or a bow-tie also has to be black. Remember, it’s a black tie event.

Black Tie Preferred

Black Tie Optional

You can get away with normal suit or a tuxedo in blue, wine colors and a colorful tie but remember, you will be amongst very few who will do that. So be very confident and really well-dressed because you are going to stand out of the crowd.

Chances are high that the attendees will be divided equally into those who would be in black tie dressing and the rest.
Hosts will be in black tie. Now depending upon your situation, proximity to hosts, you can decide on your dressing. If you rule out tuxedo and a black tie, you can refer to the above point of business meeting.

White Tie Event

​A white tie even is far more formal and has a stricter dress code.
You can’t wear tuxedos here. Actually you can only wear tailcoat, winged collar white shirt, white bow tie and a waist coat.
Peak lapel is what you should opt for, always.
Avoid wrist watches. You should wear pocket watch, if you can
Avoid belt

Cocktail Chic

​Moving from formalwear to casual wear.
Choose dark colors & subtle patterns.
One can afford to be creative in opting from many styling details. Choose just a few and execute them well.
Fitting is paramount. Smart fit should be opted for rather than too loosely fitted one.
Accessorize creatively with pocket square, boutonniere, belts, shoes and ties
Can wear stylish patterns on shirt but always put the total combination in mind rather than focusing on individual pieces.

Resort Wear

​Linen and Cotton rule this space.
While shorts and linen shirts are great, dandy men should elevate their stature by donning chic  sports jacket.
A sports jacket is less structured as compared to a business suit jacket and is generally slightly loose to provide more arms play. We design our jackets in a special way and that is by keeping cross back slightly roomy without losing form around the chest and belly area, thereby bringing best of both the world, fitted looks along with comfortable movement
 There is a lot of freedom in color choice here but pastels are what look cool.
Wear single button, slim lapels though peak lapels in standard width are also fine.
Have patch pockets in the jacket and try teaming it with crew neck polos.

Having gone through the above article, it is also important to see that the suit you buy is not a substandard one technically. Checklist for a good suit will give you a quick insight into this aspect.