Background of Nehru Jacket

Before embarking on the details of this piece, let us understand a little history of Nehru Jacket. India's first Prime Minister, Jawahar Lal Nehru, publicly wore two kinds of jackets. The technically correct name for the most common one he wore is Achkan. We will have more information on What an Achkan is soon. 
The other jacket piece he wore, but not too often, is an Indian Vest, also known as Bundi. For some odd reason, this latter piece has become popular as a Nehru jacket even though there are not too many pictures of Nehru wearing it in his public appearances. 
As a matter of coincidence, PM Modi also finds Bundi as one of his favourite dressing pieces, which many have started referring to as Modi Jacket.​
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​What is a Nehru Jacket

It is a sleeveless outerwear with a round band collar, has an open placket with four to five buttons, and ends well above the hips. But a Nehru Jacket or Modi Jacket goes much beyond this fundamental construction. The choice of buttons, pockets, vents, fabrics and other trimmings can convert this classic piece into a formal, casual, traditional or even adventure outfit.

What is so good about Nehru Jacket

As explained briefly above, among many good things, the best piece about the Nehru Jacket is its versatility, which allows it to be worn on various occasions & paired with different types of clothing, be it traditional Indian attire like kurta-pajamas or Western wear like shirts and trousers. 
With the names of two biggies of Indian politics attached, Bundi naturally attains a cultural significance & adds a touch of India to the style. So, for a foreigner visiting India, it becomes a good ice breaker and an exotic piece to carry from here.

Which fabric is best for a Nehru Jacket

The original Nehru Jacket (as seen in the picture above) was in khadi. During the non-cooperation movement, Mahatma Gandhi made khadi fabric the symbol of resistance. Probably, Nehru tried adding his bit to make it a mainstream fabric, at least amongst the political class.
Today, the usage occasion decides what fabric works best for a Nehru Jacket.

Nehru Jacket as Casualwear

For casual occasions, cotton, linen & khadi are the go-to fabric. One can team it up with denim and tees and add a casual flair to the do by keeping the front buttons partly open.
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Traditional Nehru Jacket

A Nehru jacket looks fabulous in classic traditional attire comprising a kurta and pyjama. 
Apart from linen, one can opt for silk, jacquard, or polyester in solid colours, prints or even with standard or customized embroidery. The play of buttons and the embroidery on the jacket edges, like collar & cuffs, can make the Nehru jacket look rich. Click here to see some cool Traditional Nehru Jacket designs.

How to Wear a Nehru Jacket

​Traditionally, men have been closing all the front buttons irrespective of what they have paired their jackets with. However, it looks better if one keeps the top button or even the second one open. It looks modern and improves breathability. 
One shouldn't wear a traditional fabric with formal wear and stick to the protocol explained above. However, the reverse may work depending on the outfit.
Unlike what many think, a Nehru Jacket with a standard turndown collar shirt works better than with a round band collar. The former supports the Nehru Jacket's neck and keeps it standing. But most prefer wearing a round band collar with it, which is fine. 

How to match Kurta with a Nehru Jacket

On the silhouette side, the good news is kurtas of any length and style work with a standard Nehru Jacket.
On the colour side, one has a lot of choices in terms of popular combinations that depend on factors like the event theme or coordination with family members, etc. One can go all monochromatic with an embroidered or printed Nehru Jacket and plain Kurta or reverse. Contrasting ideas also work very well. A well-planned pocket square adds a lot of flair to the ensemble. 
One should avoid cheap golden lace work on the jacket or made in shiny polyester fabric.

Summing up

The technically correct name of a Nehru Jacket or a Modi Jacket is Bundi or Indian Vest. It is one of the most versatile outerwear for men, and one should definitely invest in a few classic pieces. Here is what our suggestion on what kind of Nehru Jacket you should have in your wardrobe: 
One jet solid black formal nehru jacket in 100% wool or high quality wool blend
A casual version in dark shades like deep blue, brown or grey in linen or cotton
These two pieces will help you level up your style quotient in formal or casual settings.

​In men's fashion, trousers play an important role in creating a stylish/sophisticated look. Finding the perfect pair of trousers can be challenging, considering the wide variety of styles, fits, and fabrics available today. In this comprehensive guide, we will delve into the world of men's trousers, exploring different stylings, providing insights into finding the right fit, and offering tips on how to style them for various occasions. Whether you're a fashion enthusiast or looking to update your wardrobe, this guide will help you make informed decisions and stay ahead of the style game.

​The first step in selecting the perfect pair of trousers is understanding the importance of finding the right fit. Ill-fitting trousers can ruin an otherwise well-put-together outfit, while the right fit can enhance your physique and exude confidence. Here are some key factors to consider when choosing the right fit:

​Now that we understand the importance of finding the right fit, let's explore different styles of men's trousers currently in vogue. Each trouser style has unique characteristics, allowing you to choose the right one for the occasion and elevate your fashion game.
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Chinos are versatile trousers that have become a staple in every man's wardrobe. They are made from medium-weight cotton twill and are available in various colors. Chinos offer a smart-casual look and can be dressed up or down depending on the occasion. Pair them with a crisp white shirt and loafers for a sophisticated ensemble, or opt for a more relaxed vibe with a graphic tee and sneakers. One can try these in relaxed as well as slim fits. Look for a little lycra content if you want to try a slim-fit option. It adds a lot of comfort and still maintains the wicking properties of cotton.
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For formal or business occasions, dress trousers are a must-have. They are typically made from high-quality wool or wool-blend fabrics and feature a more tailored fit. Choose a pair in a classic color such as navy, charcoal, or black for maximum versatility. Pair them with a dress shirt, blazer, and leather dress shoes to create a refined and elegant look.

​Joggers have gained immense popularity recently due to their comfort and contemporary style. Made from soft and stretchy fabrics such as knitted cotton or jersey, joggers offer a relaxed fit with tapered legs and an elasticized waistband. They are perfect for casual outings or lounging at home. Pair them with a fitted T-shirt and sneakers for a sporty yet fashionable look.
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​Cargo pants are a trendy and functional option for those seeking a rugged and utilitarian aesthetic. With multiple pockets and a loose fit, cargo pants provide both style and practicality. Pair them with a plain T-shirt, boots, and a denim jacket for an effortlessly cool look. These pants are normally made of cotton or canvas material.

​Now that we have explored different styles of men's trousers, let's dive into some styling tips that will help you make a fashion statement:
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Accessorize
Accessorizing can elevate your trouser game to the next level. A classy belt, stylish socks (length and designs), and the most appropriate shoes enhance your personality & showcase your attention to detail.

Conclusion​
Men's trousers are versatile and essential parts of every man's wardrobe. By understanding the importance of the right fit, exploring different styles, and following appropriate styling tips, you can create outfits that exude style and confidence. 
Remember, the key is to find trousers that flatter your physique, are comfortable to wear, and reflect your style. 

We covered the important pointers of SS20 Menswear Trends in one of our blogs. We continue with the same idea in 2022 as the world opens up.
Post CoVID world needs healing and return of vitality and optimism. The season colors chosen by the experts are on those lines.
WGSN & Coloro, the two leading organizations in the colour forecasting world have chosen Orchid Pink, which stands for hyper-real energizing qualities, as the leading colour for SS22.
The other vibrant colour, matching the vitality of Orchid Pink, that will be popular is Mango Sorbet Yellow. Yellow has been gaining popularity for last six seasons and will continue to be part of the designers palette in SS22.
Butter (Pastel Yellow), Atlantic Blue & Olive Green being the other three colors will provide a counter balance to Orchid Pink & Mango Sorbet thereby opening the range to more sober and elevated appeal.  
While these colors could be seen in almost all the collections, either on the side or as mainstay, most designers continued using pastels, blacks and camel when it came to their menswear collection.
Brown continues to remain amongst the favorites even in SS22.
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Credit & Copyright (L to R):Alexander Jil Sander (Photo:Vogue Runway), Paul Smith (Photo: Vogue Runway), Balmain (Photo: Vogue Runway), Ermenegildo Zegna (Photo: Vogue Runway)

​The above color trends chart shows how a few colors who have been ruling the menswear fashion design landscape are changing their avatars over the seasons & years. It also introduces a brand new color "Neo Mint" which enters the scene exactly like how "Millennial Pink" did a few years ago. Almost all the leading menswear designers and brands had these colors predominantly in their SS/20 collections. Naturally this will set the trend for the rest of the clothing industry.   

When it comes to the real world of corporate, street-wear etc, it is not always feasibly to show up in a minty overall with a hat. So what do you do? Well, if you are really up to it, you can try out this fresh color on your shirt or a pocket square, maybe in your chinos. The color is refreshing for summers and will keep you with times. It works really well with whites, deep blues & a few other pastel shades. Some examples are given below:

The other big color trend is the strong presence of Brown & Yellow Family (Cantaloupe, Orange & Saffron Yellow to Khaki). Most of the menswear brands like Canali & Belruti played a lotwith these shades. 

It is time for men's suits wardrobe to see some browns after a heavy dose of grays & blues in their suits and trousers departments. If worn with whites, blues, pinks and pastels, brown looks very classy. We have a big range of brown family in blends, 100% wool, Linen, Corduroy or Cottons. Do reach out to us. 

Striped patterns in men's suits are making a comeback though it is too early for it to regain their top position. If you already have one and if it fits nicely, do not throw it away. If you do not have one, wait for sometime & let it become mainstream once again to reuse it.

Another returning trend is the double breasted coat. We have been seeing this style trying to make a comeback for a few seasons. 

If there is one element which is constant in almost all the brands, its the cross-body bag. It is pure androgynous, highly utility driven and safe accessory bag to own.    

Printed Shirts continue to remain in the center-stage. They only are becoming bigger. Tie & Dye patterns, Floral & Geometric, almost all kind of patterns are being seen on almost all the ramps in SS20. 

Animal prints were presented by some designers and they looked cool on the ramp. We too have made shirts in the animal print for our clients. If you find them too bold, a pocket square or a scarf can be still carried. Animal print looks very rich and sophisticated, if carried subtly. 

Many top labels are bringing pleated trousers, high waist pants & loose fitting  lowers. Though the trend is equally strong for sharp fittings. But the point is that no longer flat fronts rule the roost, pleats are challenging their monopoly. 

In this piece, we will try to lay down some basic ground rules and offer a wardrobe toolkit to the candidates on how to dress up for an interview.

Warning: Long Post Ahead. For the ease of reading, we have divided the post into various sections. Choose whichever section is applicable for you. The tips are not only for the interview though that is the focus. You can use it for your daily work wear planning as well. 

There are various types of interviews and interviewers. Golden rule to remember is that you are not dressing up for yourself but for the interviewers.  Since you wouldn’t know in advance, most of the times, who would be your interviewer, key is to dress up conservatively. 
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Shirt: Avoid pure white shirt. If it’s old, then it will look yellow and stale. If it’s new, it will either look too bright and flashy or as if you have bought it specifically for the interview. Not good either ways.
Choose a well-worn but relatively fresh shirt. Always pick a light colored shirt & avoid dark color as much as you can. If it has to be striped, then better to have white or very light base color. Avoid checks. Avoid cream or yellow or green color base. Safest is solid light blue.

Tie: Tie is must for this category of interviews. Always have one which is contrast to that of the shirt color, which means dark colored. Avoid loud and large prints. Choose very fine, micro patterns or plain and smooth silk/polyester. Safest base colors are red and dark blue base.

Trousers: Always have trousers in contrast to shirt’s color. Don’t have any pattern on the fabric unless it is very fine. Avoid cotton chinos if you can.

Shoes: Keep it in black leather with laces. No experiment there.

​Socks: Match with your trousers. Never wear white socks. Avoid wearing loud colors or prints

Jacket/Suit: Not really required as long as your academics are solid and you are confident about your diction, content and articulation. But its also safe to wear one. If you do, put on a jacket (formal blazer) in dark color, preferably navy blue or black. Keep it simple and without any shiny or flashy skin or element. Even if it is slightly oversized, no one will notice but don’t have it too tight or slim fitted or of course completely ill fitted. 

Bag: You can carry a plastic folder with your resume and certificates, a faux or real leather portfolio bag is equally OK. If you can’t avoid a sling bag, then don’t enter into the room with it hanging on one or both of your shoulders. Carry it in your left hand like a briefcase.

​Expected Candidate Profile:
Subject Matter Expert, Team Player with Leadership Potential, Culture Fit

Expected Interviewers Profile:
Have proven themselves within the company and their corporate circle, HR looks for culture, integrity match & future senior leadership capability. Functional interviewers look for good subordinate, team leader and a candidate who is in control and shows enough interest and zeal for the job.    

​Dressing Theme:
Conservative & Safe Dressing, smartly fitted clothes which tells the world that you take interest in leaving a good and professional impression.  

​Jacket/Suit: Jacket is a better option but a classic two piece suit is also a good choice. Three piece, however is definitely overdressing and is completely avoidable. If you plan to wear a suit, then choose only solid colors from either grey, blue or black. Avoid shiny polyester which looks cheap. If you are planning to wear jacket, then you can opt for small patterns on the body fabric but not too big and bold.

Shirt: If you choose to wear a jacket or a suit, opt for solid colors in shirts, like white, power blue, peach etc. You can also opt for checks and stripes depending on whether you are going to wear a tie or not. Tie with a patterned shirt is a tricky subject and needs to be evaluated on case to case basis.

Tie: Though not compulsory (especially when you wear a jacket), ties have been considered to be safe to be worn for formal occasions historically. So you may choose not to ignore them. If you are going to wear a tie, choose something which works with your shirt and is in contrast to the shirt color.

Trousers: Avoid wearing trousers which are of the same color as that of the jacket unless it's a suit set. If you are wearing a dark blue or black jacket, then ash grey or khaki trousers too would look very professional. Keep the fitting smart rather than too tight fitted or too loose. Avoid front pleats. They look very sloppy and old fashioned.

Shoes: Black with laces are the safest

Socks: Match with your trousers. Never wear white. Avoid wearing loud colors or prints

Watch: Standard sized with leather strap is the best but complete steel is also OK as long as it is not too big with a jazzy dial.

Belt: Definitely wear one and match it with your shoes  

Bag: If you are meeting someone in the public place, then a plastic folder with a copy of your resume is good enough. The safest option, wherever you meet, is a smart portfolio bag or formal satchel bag which one would normally carry to the office. Avoid sling bags.

Fabrics, Stitches and Fit should look richer & fresher when seen in person than how they appear in your pictures. Best clothes are tailored. They are made for you. So avoid wearing standard brands with their logos on pockets or sleeves or cuffs etc. You may like to read more about different type of suits here.

Jacket/Suit: Wear a nicely cut dark colored suit on a weekday. If the meeting is scheduled on a weekend, a jacket will work though a suit will do no harm. If it is in a very casual setting, say in a hotel café or a club house, then a sport shirt with smart chinos should also do the job. If you opt for a jacket in any setting, avoid linen and cotton jackets unless it’s a very personal heart to heart kind of discussion than a formal process. Avoid jackets with metal buttons. Always opt for 100% wool material. It is the richest material for suits and jackets and you have arrived! You must read this before buying your next suit fabric.

Shirt: It will be decided depending upon when and where you meet and whether you wear a suit or a jacket.
Opt for only white shirt if you wear a suit. Crisp white shirt looks the plushest. Wear only French cuff shirt with nice cufflinks.
You can try light colored, light pattern shirt if you wear just a jacket.
Never wear shirts which have the colors belonging to the family of yellow and green. Never wear dark colored shirts. Never wear knitted polo shirts.

Tie: Tie is an option for you depending upon your interviewers, organization profile and your own public image. If you choose to wear one, always opt for one which is of pure silk, if not five or seven fold ties. Large or comic prints can be avoided for the interview.
You can avoid wearing a tie with a jacket or if you are meeting on weekend and in a public place. A nice pocket square may add a certain air of suaveness to your jacket ensemble.

Trousers: Well fitted trousers (holds good for jackets and suits too) are difficult to find. If you can find one for yourself, you can solve any problem. A problem solver is what your interviewer is looking for. So try getting the smartest fitted trousers for yourself.

One of the jobs of your attire is to make you look old enough to handle a large responsibility if you are very young. On the contrary, if you are in your 50s or don’t have the best of body frame, your garments’ fit, if it is smart, will assure people that you stay in touch with the latest and keep up with the world. It gets reflected in the trousers (and jackets) the most.

Shoes: Match it with the rest of the ensemble though black or tan with laces are the safest option. Never wear tan shoes with black trousers or vice versa. Avoid slip-ons unless it’s a weekend meeting in a cafe. Definitely avoid open-toe shoes wherever and whenever you meet.

Socks: Match with your trousers. Never wear white socks. Prints can look good but it is safe to be on the conservative side.  

Watch: Standard sized with leather strap is the best but complete steel is also OK as long as it is not too big and loud. Though you can afford to flash a bit of sophisticated luxury in here.

Belt: If you are wearing one, match it with your shoes. If you are meeting in a casual setting, don’t wear formal slim leather belt. You can try braided or belts with stylish (not big and flashy) buckles. You can also try a without-belt look but it will be dependent on many other factors.

Bag: You don’t need to carry any bag or a folder. However a good idea would be to carry a smart looking visiting card case. Also it is important to subtly display that you are putting your phone on silent mode and instead of keeping it on the table, slip that into your jacket’s internal pocket. 

​This new breed of businesses has everything anti to what has been written above. That doesn’t mean that you can walk into an interview in shorts and crew neck tees (though we have heard cases where interviewers have done so). It’s always safer to wear a formal shirt and a chino (if not dress trousers). Even if you wear a suit, there is no harm. Worst case, you would hear a satirical comment on your dressing. But it can also be a good ice breaking point to capitalize on. And If you have a good solid content in you, it won’t matter much. 

Well these are a few very general and the safest tips. However each person, each job, each organization and therefore each problem, is different. If you would like to get an individual advice, feel free to let us know. If you would like to have a corporate-wide session, or consulting or a workshop on grooming and dressing for your sales executive and other senior leaders who face the external world, we carry out such sessions as well.
Women Interview Dressing Tips Blog post is saved for the next time.  So dear ladies, keep a watch. Till then, you may find this piece of some use.
Always remember, dressing or grooming is not everything but it definitely is a very good starting point and First Impression is normally the Last Impression.

To make things simple, we have prepared this quick FAQs for you.
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Monsoons are here, Mumbai!
It is a respite from the humid summers but a hassle for all the professionals who struggle in the peak hours to reach their offices and travel to meet clients and other important people. The concern is how to survive the downpour & maintain professional looks. ​

Let’s start by listing down the top trouble-making elements:​

• Clothes & Shoes getting wet & soiled due to puddles & rain shower
• Excessive crowding of wet and sweating people in trains, metros, and other dry spots
• Head getting wet causing cold & related illness 
• City infrastructure that lacks smooth and wide footpaths, clean public toilets, etc., compounds the problems.

Given all this, is there a way to manage our professional outlook as best as we do on a sunny January day in Mumbai?

​Here is what we suggest.
To remain dry and fresh, we need to maintain two profiles- One, while outside under the downcast sky, and two, while in the office or meeting space.
When outside, dress up to take the lashing rains head-on. When indoors, focus on your presentation without worrying about a wet shirt on your back.​

Duffel bags look more than acceptable if you have to travel for meetings. They look professional and have a lot of space for pack-able umbrellas, shoes, socks, deodorant, and a hand towel. 
Wear light rain shoes without socks and change into formal ones at the venue. Nowadays, all offices, hotels, cafes, and malls have a good utility infrastructure, so executing this strategy is easy.​

​We strongly advice against the following:

Avoid whites when outdoors. You cannot predict where the next stubborn stain riding the water drops will come from and deposit on your whites.​

Don’t wear socks when outdoors and when you are prone to walk in puddles and water.
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​We strongly advice the following:

​​Invest in a spacious duffel/sling bag made of nylon or synthetic material.​

Look for trousers in lighter material. Mumbai is a hot and humid city. These trousers will come in handy even outside the monsoon season.
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Use your towel to wipe your feet dry when you reach indoors. It will prevent them from various infections and ensure general health and hygiene.​

​Umbrella has been a fashion accessory for long. Use the one that offers functionality with aesthetics. ​

While raincoats and trenchcoats are the usual garments people wear overseas, they are not the most suited for India for various reasons. Bikers in India do wear a plastic rain cover. There is nothing stylish about it, but it does the trick for them.​

​Many organizations have understood the importance of grooming and have used it to their advantage. Almost every professional takes extra care when getting ready for a job interview. However many, be it the employees or the organizations, either take a very superficial approach or completely ignore the importance of dressing and its role in ensuring success in their day to day struggle.

​UBS Bank has issued a 21 page dress code guideline to their bankers. It is not just the guideline but a compliance note for the senior management. The document starts with UBS explaining the need of such a dress code. It tells that the reputation is their biggest asset and one of the important aspect of reputation is behavior and “impeccable presentation”. Clothing help achieve this as “Critical Nonverbal Communication” tools. The document not only details what to wear but how to wear.
Bankers, in their professional roles, have to exude the following traits to the external stakeholders, namely their clients, current or future-
Bankers, in their professional roles, have to exude the following traits to the external stakeholders, namely their clients, current or future-

- Sense of security for their clients’ money

- Assurance that they take the right decisions to grow their assets

- Integrity & Ethics required to never cross the fine line that exists between honest and bad money

- Knowledge & updated information on the latest investment opportunities     that comes with traveling, networking & attending money making seminar &   conferences

- Professional Capability of taking timely action

Let’s break down this topic of dressing into various areas:

A regular banker should have at least 6 suits assuming one will be with the laundry at any given point of time. You should read How to buy Suit Fabric & "Important Points to keep in mind while Buying a New Suit" to know more about the process. 
In terms of the styling, it has to be strictly formal. Darker colors like black, charcoal grey, navy rule the roost. Self-patterns like herringbone or fine Prince of Wales checks in self color are fine but no bold prints, at least not for Monday-Friday workweek. (Check Out TailorWear fabric range here. We bring far bigger collection, when we meet you personally). The fitting has to be contemporary, meaning no over-sized jackets and baggy trousers but neither those ultra slim fit ones. They should be smartly tailored, with just the right cut.
Please ensure that the buttons don’t look cheap or are contrast to the body fabric.

​Shirt: A banker should have at least 10-12 shirts out of which 5-7 should be white. There are various options available within white color. So there are ample choices. 3-5 shirts should be in light blue. Again there are various patterns and shades available here. Keep it light color only. Remaining shirts can be of very light grey or any other color which the bank approves of. 

Shoes: Two good leather shoes, one in black and one in deep tan are good. Avoid camel color as it reduces the air of formality from the affair. Match your belt with the shoes. If you can, do match your satchel or portfolio bag too.

​Accessories: Ties, though are fading out of the formal dressing scene, but for the bankers, “conservatively formal” is the keyword. So they should keep wearing ties. Ties add some vibrancy to the overall dressing and once should use that to one’s advantage. A good tie is an interesting topic of discussion and can be a good ice-breaker.
Pocket Square though is not necessary but if one is wearing, one should be careful not to buy those economy pack accessories boxes which offer a set of ties, cuff-links and pocket square. The pattern of the pocket square should be different than that of the tie.
If the cuff-links are not of neutral metal but has some gemstones, try matching their color with that of either the shirt or the tie. A cuff-link gemstone with a color outside your clothing palette should be avoided.
​Hair, Tattoos & Other trinkets: The buzzword here too is “Conservatively Formal”. Neat, well groomed hair are a must. So do a no show of the tattoos, if there are any.  Apart from a good solid watch from a genuine brand, one should avoid any bracelet, rings, neck chains etc. 
A ready list of dressing hacks can be read here to get some quick ideas on dressing.

​Hope the banker readers find this article informative and useful. For any further drill down or detailed discussion, you can write to us at [email protected]